1:01 am Dec 26, 2010

Dion//West Oz

Every now and then everything comes together. Filming the new Globe flick, 0000, we chased waves all over Australia. We checked every nook and cranny of the coastline searching for the right conditions — road rally extraordinaire. This particular morning we knew the swell was up, but didn’t want to deal with the zoo at the Box. Rick Jakovich (legend!!!) wanted to check a spot that seldom is good, but as soon as CJ laid eyes on it, he sprinted down the beach, board in hand. First wave resulted in a snapped board and we thought the session might be a dud. However, when he hit the beach, a frothing CJ legged it back to the car-park for a backup. Here Dion reaps the rewards of CJ’s froth.

Nate//Lakey Peak

Nate had kind of been having a shocker on this trip — wasn’t landing things he normally doesn’t even have to think about. It was beginning to play with his emotions and mess his head. This session turned the tide and put a smile back on Nate’s face. Lakey’s offers up some massive ramps and Nate was blasting airs. When he launched this one, I thought for sure: cover. The mag thought differently, but win-win as Nate got his cover…

Yadnin Nicol // Barbados

Soup Bowls is considered by many (including King Kelly himself) to be one of the best waves in the Caribbean. I saw a massive cold front system forecast to push off the East Coast , grabbed Yadin and Mike Lossness and bailed south. While my house in North Carolina saw freezing temperatures and snow, we enjoyed massive tubes and always smooth Mt. Gay rum.

Four photos from DJ Struntz…

Yadin Nicol // Costa Rica

Accidents happen. I have been fortunate in all the years of crazy travel and close calls only to have gotten stitched up on one occasion. On day one of this trip, I was entering the water to swim out and my leg went into a hole in the rocks just as a wave hit me. The pain was excruciating and I thought I blew my knee out for sure. I couldn’t swim. I was just floating in the impact zone trying to figure out how bad it was. My knee kinda worked and I was really pissed off so I brilliantly decided to kick out and shoot anyway. While the tide was going out, I got dry-docked, adding insult to injury. When I tried to get out of the water, my leg buckled and I basically had to crawl up the sand. Verdict: sprained knee and two months of rehab.

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